A few days ago was the launch of Zara’s first line of luxury lingerie and loungewear: The female gaze. With such a name, we for sure had some expectations. Zara is a huge company worth about 18 billion dollars. It’s an impressive fashion empire created in 1974 that has been thriving in Europe for decades now.

The lingerie market has been getting a lot of love during this pandemic. Everyone wants nice loungewear and bralettes right now. It doesn’t seem crazy to think that the minute they would touch the lingerie market, they would want to reach as many customers as possible…
I am not a big fan of Zara. I think they have power and responsibility in the fashion industry, yet they still don’t pay their workers properly and aren’t too good either for the environment. They have made improvements recently, but it is still not enough. It’s a fast-fashion company and that, in itself hurts us and the planet.

However, lingerie is my passion, and every new launch is still a big excitement. So I did my research and took a look at their new products. I also love the name of this line as it seems to be about women primarily. It’s for sure an attempt to detach themselves from any Victoria’s secret tendencies and to adapt to the new generation of women who are claiming to take care of themselves for themselves.

Aesthetic and sizing

The photo campaign is beautiful photography-wise. It’s simple, natural, and very European. I see that unlike their usual products made of polyester almost exclusively, this collection features Mulberry silk, cotton, Tencel, and wool. It’s not original, nor even creative but it’s at least a collection most people could easily appreciate if we only talk about aesthetics. It’s classic and minimalist.

But… There is a but… Something is missing. Well, for a company that is able to create a size range going from XS to XL (already not impressive for such a fashion giant but you got me), Zara luxury lingerie launch seems to be a sample sale.

I had to check the website several times to be sure, but, every single piece comes in three sizes: S-M-L or 70B-75B-80B. Is there a glitch in the system? Did it sell out already in every other size? Am I mistaken?

Well, it seems that the brand missed the point of the “female gaze” appellation. It seems to be for me “the high fashion gaze”, or the “90’s supermodel gaze” … I am not too sure. Not trying to be funny here, by the way. I am genuinely shocked by this decision to be so exclusive.
Zara luxury lingerie launch
With so much money and possibilities, why would they decide to exclude the majority of the planet? Or are they just testing the water? Is Zara shy about this new collection? I am honestly speechless.

Nonetheless, I guess it could have been expected, in some ways. I haven’t shopped at Zara for about 4 years now. I am not familiar with their regular size range, but working on this article, I realized that actually, they aren’t inclusive whatsoever. Some of their women sweaters come only in S-M-L and the further they can go is really an XL.  Why would it be different for lingerie?

Zara luxury lingerie launch
Nonetheless, I hope this will help us reflect on how a big part of the fashion industry is somehow unwilling to truly evolve. When we only seek inclusive brands, we end up forgetting that such a huge part of the market is still full of brands that do not care for inclusivity.

When people complain that small independent designers aren’t inclusive enough as a one-woman business, I want them to remember this Zara luxury lingerie launch and redirect that energy where it belongs…

I was willing to review one of their pieces for the sake of comparison and fashion interest but I wonder if that would really make sense… Probably not?

Let me know your thoughts…

Yours truly, Wen

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3 Replies to “The female gaze: Zara first luxury lingerie line launch…”

  1. While I’m not mad at independent brands that aren’t in my size (that’s most of them, after all), I am sometimes disappointed when I see something lovely I can’t wear. In this case, I’m quite indifferent. There are a million brands exactly like this. I could walk into any department store and find the same lack of options in my size, with a similar appearance and price tag. I would not even have noticed that Zara had started selling lingerie, even if I went there regularly (I haven’t been in more than 10 years, when I decided to get only durable clothing).

    So I agree: there’s no real point in you reviewing their products.

  2. This reminds me of the first time I walked into an Oysho shop (also from the Inditex group): all the bras were in a B cup. I remember thinking: what is the point of having cup sized lingerie if everything is in the same cup size! I believe they have some A and C cup now, but yeah this is truly bizarre to me.
    Also, I agree with the previous comment. The items look fine but not unique in any way. I don’t feel like I’m missing out.

  3. Your analysis is brilliant and right on point!
    It’s sad and disappointing that, as you pointed out, a very large part of the fashion industry has stubbornly refused to evolve.
    What you wrote in your 3rd of December, 2018 post ‘Thoughts on Victoria’s Secret 2018 Fashion show: uninspired much?’ is still true.
    I would go even further, and note that certain members (including guiding members) of the C.F.D.A. were, and many still are, fatphobic, racist misogynists.
    I find it sad that Zara doesn’t pay their workers properly and shows a lack of foresight in excluding so many potential buyers with its new lingerie line.
    I am fairly certain that they are not alone in these kinds of shortcomings.
    I am sure that there many lingerie brands out there that are much more deserving of your insightful reviews and gorgeous photo essays than Zara’s ‘The Female Gaze’ luxury lingerie line.
    I always look forward to looking at and reading your reviews!

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